Kemptown Bar Crawl: The Ultimate Route Through Brighton's Rainbow-Kissed East Side
There's something utterly magical about Kemptown that sets it apart from the rest of Brighton. Maybe it's the rainbow flags fluttering in the sea breeze, or the way the Georgian terraces catch the golden hour light as it bounces off the waves. Whatever it is, this corner of Brighton's east side has cultivated a bar scene that's as diverse, welcoming, and downright fabulous as the community that calls it home.
Unlike the tourist-heavy crush of The Lanes or the indie spirit of North Laine, Kemptown offers something different: a neighbourhood crawl where locals rub shoulders with visitors, where conversation flows as freely as the drinks, and where you're just as likely to end up in a heated debate about drag queens as you are about the Albion's latest match.
Starting Strong: The Eastern Approach
Begin your Kemptown adventure at the top of St James's Street, where the neighbourhood's character immediately announces itself. The best time to start is around 6pm on a Friday or Saturday, giving you plenty of time to work your way down towards the seafront as the evening unfolds.
Kick off at Subline, Brighton's legendary underground club bar that's been serving the LGBTQ+ community and allies since the 1990s. Even if the main club isn't your scene, the street-level bar area offers a perfect warm-up pint (around £4-5) and sets the inclusive, celebratory tone for the evening ahead. No booking needed, but expect it to get busy after 8pm.
Next, stroll down to The Amsterdam, a cosy pub that perfectly embodies Kemptown's laid-back charm. With its mismatched furniture, friendly regulars, and excellent selection of local ales, it's the kind of place where conversations strike up naturally. Prices hover around £4-6 per pint, and the Sunday roasts are legendary if you're planning a recovery crawl.
Mid-Crawl Gems
Continue down St James's Street to discover some of the area's best-kept secrets. The Black Horse stands as a traditional boozer with a thoroughly modern outlook. Their craft beer selection rivals anywhere in North Laine, but without the pretension. The beer garden out back provides perfect respite during warmer months, and you'll often find locals deep in animated discussion about everything from local politics to the latest gallery opening in nearby Trafalgar Street.
For something completely different, duck into one of the area's cocktail spots. These tend to be smaller, more intimate affairs than their Western Road counterparts, often tucked into converted Georgian buildings with bags of character. Expect to pay £8-12 for expertly crafted drinks, and don't be surprised if the bartender remembers your order by your second visit.
The Heart of the Community
As you work your way towards the seafront, the true spirit of Kemptown reveals itself. This isn't just about the drinks, it's about the community. You'll notice how conversations flow between strangers, how the bar staff know their regulars' names, and how there's an underlying sense of belonging that makes everyone feel welcome.
The area around Sydney Street offers some fantastic options for food between drinks. Unlike the chain restaurants dominating Western Road, here you'll find independent eateries serving everything from artisanal pizza to innovative small plates. Booking ahead is wise for dinner, especially on weekends.
Seaside Finale
No Kemptown crawl would be complete without ending near the sea. The bars closest to the seafront take full advantage of their location, with many offering outdoor seating where you can nurse a final drink while listening to the waves crash against the pebbles.
The Fortune of War, technically just outside Kemptown proper but absolutely part of any serious east-side crawl, sits directly on the beach. There's something wonderfully surreal about sipping a pint with your feet practically in the pebbles, watching late-night dog walkers pass by while the pier lights twinkle in the distance. Prices are reasonable (£4-6 per pint), and the atmosphere is pure Brighton: relaxed, friendly, and utterly unique.
Practical Crawling Wisdom
Budget around £40-60 per person for a full evening, depending on your drinking pace and whether you stop for food. Most venues accept cards, but carrying some cash never hurts in Brighton's more characterful establishments.
The beauty of a Kemptown crawl is its compact nature. Everything is within easy walking distance, and unlike Preston Street, you won't need to worry about long treks between venues. The area is well-lit and feels safe, with plenty of late-night food options for the inevitable hunger pangs.
Start early if you want to experience each venue properly. The neighbourhood has a lovely rhythm to it, with early evening offering the chance for proper conversations and connections, while later hours bring out the party atmosphere that Kemptown is famous for.
Remember, this is a community as much as a night out destination. The locals are friendly, the bar staff are knowledgeable, and everyone's welcome. Come with an open mind, leave your preconceptions at the door, and prepare to discover why so many people fall head over heels for this rainbow-colored corner of Brighton by the sea.
